In an interesting and personal account, Suzanna Clark takes the reader to the vibrant Morocco in her book A House in Fes.
After discovering the ancient and rich city of Fes on a trip with her husband, Clark has the idea, as crazy as it sounds at first,
to buy and renovate a Moroccan house. This embarks the Australian couple on a journey into learning the intricacies of Moroccan
culture as well as the task at hand of renovating a house, both of which they have no experience in. In a chronology, Clark
illustrates the process of choosing a house, the bureaucracy of purchasing the house, and finally the trials and tribulations of
renovating the house. Throughout this, she weaves in her daily interactions with the welcoming Fassi and gives the reader insight
into what life actually feels like in Fes. As the author has deep respect for the ancient building practices used to build
the house, she vows to renovate in such a way which appreciates the past while still delivering the modernities which make
life today comfortable.
Clark does a very good job at depicting the Moroccan lifestyle in her anecdotes of daily interactions which transports the reader into Fes.
This is further amplified by the fact she is from a Western country, and many of the customs and attitudes are completely different to
what she is used to. This can be quite funny at times, but also can be read as cultural blindness when she is commenting on traditions
which are centuries old. She does however put in the much required effort to understand the local culture and customs, and this learning
process helps the readers comprehend the vast differences, as well as similarities, which Moroccan culture holds. It was particularly
interesting to read about her relationships with local Fassi, as it gave a very good glimpse into the beliefs and virtues which they hold.
As a student preparing to go to Fes, I found this book incredibly helpful and entertaining.
It made my anticipation easier because I had read about all the common problems tourists face,
and gave me a sense of peace from the unknown. I had read Travels by Paul Bowles before, which
takes place in Fes, and it really piqued my interest in the preserved way of life which Fes has
held on to. This book was good, but didn’t nearly paint as clear of a picture which Suzanna Clark
was able to. I definitely didn’t know all the small things about Moroccan culture (For example,
the belief of Djinns) and this book showed me the path of another tourist, making it easier on myself therefore.
The parts of the book which shocked me most were the oftentimes bureaucratic and formal procedures which Moroccan
life adheres to. This was accentuated when Suzanna and her husband were trying to buy the house, and it took months
of paperwork and negotiations before they were able to do so. In the US, I have the perception that if you have
the money you are able to buy something immediately, although this doesn't always hold true. This was again seen
when they were renovating the house, and needed engineers, construction plans, and administrative approval
before they were able to move forward with anything. I imagine it has developed this way in an effort to
preserve the ancient architecture and protect it from large developments. I have a lot of respect for this,
for it is not always easy to resist advancement and development, but Fes has stayed strong and is now renowned
because of it. This dichotomy can be seen within the city of Fes itself, with the town being separated between
The Old Medina and the Ville Nouvelle. The latter being built in the 20th century after France ruled Morocco
as a protectorate, and now looks like any other city and lacks the character of the Ancient Medina.
Overall, I would recommend this book to anyone who has plans or is thinking about traveling to Morocco.
In order to appreciate any place, one must understand the underlying culture and heritage,
and reading first hand accounts is a great way to do so without being there. It makes your
stay so much more enriching when you can engage with the history, and real nature of the city
rather than just sightseeing. There are many beautiful places on this earth, but what
differentiates them all is the people who inhabit them. Morocco is not renowned for its
hospitality for no reason, and this book hopes to capture that in its entertaining and enriching story.
